Rick Stein’s Fisherman’s Layered Curry


I went out with the fishermen of Pelana village early one morning. They were hoping to catch parawer, the most prized fish on the south coast of the island. About a mile offshore, I watched them play out a net from one boat into a large circle, which was then pulled in by hand from another boat. I was much enthused by their spirit, cheerfulness and skilful cooperation in the tricky work of pulling in the net using nothing other than muscle power. Then I went back to their house and watched Chandrika, the aunt of Lasantha, head fisherman, prepare this curry. She sliced garlic, red onions and ginger against a large blade, which she held between her feet as she sat on the floor of the tiny kitchen area. Pictures of three of her family – Lasantha’s mother, daughter and baby niece – lost in the tsunami, were on the table in the front room where we all later sat to eat the fish. I was taken with the sophistication of the dish, where the fish was cooked with a little coconut vinegar, turmeric, chilli powder and water, then layered with a stir-fry of onions, garlic, green chillies, cinnamon, curry leaves and roasted spice. She explained how it was important for this to be left for at least 10 minutes before being eaten with rice, so that the flavours of the vegetables infused the fish. I felt very privileged to be there; they also taught me how to eat with my fingers. Having moulded the fish into a ball with a little rice, you scoop it up in three fingers, place them to your lips and then use your thumb to push the food into your mouth.

Serves 6
1kg thick gurnard, grey mullet,
sea bass or snapper fillet, cut into large 3cm chunks
3 tbsp coconut vinegar
2 tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp kashmiri chilli powder
3 tbsp coconut oil 25g peeled ginger, finely shredded
25g garlic, thinly sliced
200g red onions or shallots, thinly sliced
4 green cayenne chillies,thinly sliced
1 tsp black mustard seeds 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
300g plum tomatoes, sliced 20 curry leaves

Put the fish into a large shallow pan with 2 tablespoons of the vinegar, 1 teaspoon of the turmeric, the chilli powder, 1 teaspoon salt and 200ml water. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook for 3 minutes, turning the pieces of fish over halfway through, until just cooked. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Heat the coconut oil in a wok or large deep frying pan over a medium heat. Add the ginger and garlic and fry for 1 minute. Add the onions or shallots, chillies, the remaining teaspoon of turmeric, the mustard seeds, black pepper and 1 teaspoon salt, and stir-fry for 4 minutes until the onion is just soft. Add the remaining tablespoon of vinegar, the sliced tomatoes, curry leaves and the liquid from the cooked fish, and continue to stir-fry for 6 minutes or until the tomatoes have broken down and the mixture is moist but not too wet. Place one third of the stir-fried vegetables over the base of a serving plate and arrange half the pieces of cooked fish on top. Cover with another third of the vegetables, the remaining fish and the rest of the vegetables, and set aside for 10 minutes before serving.

Rick Stein’s Far Eastern Odyssey published by BBC Books at £25.00. Text © Rick Stein, 2009. Photography © James Murphy, 2009.